BASIC
CARE REQUIREMENTS: Fresh water available at all times. Minerals and salt available
(designed for llamas). Grass hay (12-14% protein) or access to grass pasture.
Llamas eat ~2% their weight per day (or 6-8# of grass hay per adult llama per
day). Shade and a wind break available. A small 3-sided shelter suits them well.
Toenails need to be trimmed every 2-3 months. Annual vaccination. Worming as recommended
by your local llama vet. Annual shearing needed on woolly, non-shedding type llamas.
Have a well-fitted halter and lead available, but do not leave the halter on full-time.
WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS: Don't buy llama
babies (younger than 4-5 months), especially bottle-babies. They tend to develop
behavior problems. Don't leave halters on full-time, or the llama is at risk of
severe injury and sores. Don't leave your untended llama tied to an ungiving object,
like a tree or a fence – use a bungee cord or rope with give in it, or they may
break their neck if startled or chased. Check new pastures for plants known to
be poisonous to llamas. Open-mouth breathing in hot weather can be dire. The llama's
temp should be 100-101 F rectally. Cool immediately if heat-stressed, and contact
your llama vet. Do not put ungelded males older than 7 months in with females
- pregnant or not. Check for and trim fighting teeth in all males over 2 years
of age, every 6 months.. Llamas are very curious - don't keep "stuff" in their
pens they could hurt themselves with. Do not use barbed wire fences. And finally,
please don't be overly kissy/cuddly with young llamas, or you could have severe
behavior risks in them as they mature. Llamas make WONDERFUL companions, pets,
hiking partners, etc with the proper care. There's nothing like an understanding
kiss from one of the "speechless brothers" on a bad or stressful day. :-) They
make wonderful friends and if purchased carefully can bring you many years of
joy. They are long-lived animals, so be sure you are ready for a long-term commitment
to them.
WHERE TO START: There is a
wide range of uses and prices for llamas. Do your research by reading books, searching
the Internet, visiting lama farms and asking LOTS of questions. You should decide
what you wish to do with your future lama: 4H, pet, packing, fiber, carting, showing,
livestock guardian, etc. Once you have done your homework and narrowed your interests,
you are ready to shop. For basic lama care info: "Caring for Llamas and Alpacas"
by Claire Hoffman or "Veterinary Lama Field Manual" by C.N. Evans, DVM or visit
www.llamaweb.com or www.llamapaedia.com
LLAMA
PRICES: As with many livestock industries, there are inexpensive, reasonable
and expensive markets for llamas - as well as high end and low end llamas. A free
or inexpensive llama may end up being a poor investment if poorly (or not) trained,
and it produces more free or cheap, unregisterable llamas. Recognize that it costs
money and time to provide pre- and post-purchase consultation and assistance,
as well as training.
WHY BUY TRAINED LLAMAS?
Even pet quality llamas need to be haltered for shots and need to have their legs
touched to trim toenails. A restraint chute costs between $500 - $1000. Most people
don't want to invest in this, so invest in the training of your llamas instead.
Remember - these are long-lived animals.
WILL
I MAKE LOTS OF $$$? Only about 5% of the market is making llamas a full time
business. These people have thousands of dollars invested in their stock and do
extensive promotion. Most people will not be able to generate any significant
income from raising llamas.
CAN I BUY JUST
ONE? Llamas are extremely social creatures. Most of them need the companionship
of their own kind to do well. A few llamas can bond to sheep, goats and other
non-canines and do well, but most should be kept with at least one other llama.